I’ve read somewhere recently about food as fashion and I think it’s very true. Whether it be the proliferation of new techniques, like the foams and gels in upmarket restaurants, a darling ingredient of the moment like fiddleheads or finger limes, or even a food philosophy like slow food. I was searching through my recipe books the other day for something different from the usual Sunday Roast chicken, and came across a fifteen year old recipe for cold poached Chinese chicken by Stephanie Alexander. Accompanying the chicken was a recipe that looks very similar to one I’ve seen on assorted blogs recently, usually attributed to either Kylie Kwong, or to Momofuku . It seems the classics never go out of style!
Poached chicken with ginger scallion sauce
2 scallions (spring onions), sliced
5 cm ( 2 inch) knob ginger, sliced
1 medium sized, free range chicken
4 spring onions, finely sliced
1 teasp finely chopped ginger
1 teasp finely chopped garlic
3 tablesp light vegetable oil
3 tablesp soy sauce
1 tablesp rice wine ( I’ve used vinegar instead of rice wine without a problem so don’t feel you need to rush out and buy a bottle, just for 1 tablespoon)
1 teasp sesame oil
1. Fill a large stockpot with water and add the spring onion and sliced ginger. Bring to the boil , then add the chicken, breast side down. Make sure it is fully submerged in the water. Return to the boil then allow it to simmer for ten minutes, with the lid on.
2. Turn off the heat. Do not lift the lid. Leave for forty five minutes.
3. Prepare a large tub of iced water. Lift chicken from the pot, and plunge into the ice cold water. Leave it in the ice water for an hour then remove to a plate.
4. In a small heat resistant bowl, mix together spring onion, ginger and garlic.
5. In a pan, heat vegetable oil until smoking hot and pour it over the contents of the bowl. It will sizzle. Stir, then add remaining ingredients.
6. I usually serve this with rice. Simply slice the chicken and pour the sauce over the top. Both chicken and sauce will keep for a few days in the fridge. Although it looks quite minimalist, the flavour is fantastic, fresh and strong.